Waves Over Beaches of Small Slope, Under a Dock, Under an Overhanging Cliff, and Past Plane Barriers (Classic Reprint)

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Excerpt from Waves Over Beaches of Small Slope, Under a Dock, Under an Overhanging Cliff, and Past Plane BarriersDuring the past year a group working in the Institute for Mathematics and Mechanics, under Navy Contract N6ori-2ol, Task Order No. 1, has pursued theoretical studies of phenomena concerning surface gravity waves. Some of the results are being reported in a series of papers of which the present introductory report is the first. It contains a brief description of the papers which will follow. Moreover, it contains an exposition of the theory Which is common to all of them.in order to avoid needless repetition and to fix a common notation insofar as that is possible.About the PublisherForgotten Books publishes hundreds of thousands of rare and classic books. Find more at www.forgottenbooks.comThis book is a reproduction of an important historical work. Forgotten Books uses state-of-the-art technology to digitally reconstruct the work, preserving the original format whilst repairing imperfections present in the aged copy. In rare cases, an imperfection in the original, such as a blemish or missing page, may be replicated in our edition. We do, however, repair the vast majority of imperfections successfully, any imperfections that remain are intentionally left to preserve the state of such historical works.