The Determination of Cotton and Linen
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Excerpt from The Determination of Cotton and Linen: By Physical, Chemical and Microscopic Methods
This pamphlet, a translation of Professor Herzog's "Die Unterscheidung von Baumwolle und Leinen, " is offered as a useful handbook for persons concerned with textile manufacture, instruction, and especially textile purchase and use. Textiles have become a subject of importance to the purchaser since household manufacture has passed by with its intimate acquaintance on the part of maker and user with the characteristics and values of different fibres and fabrics, and in its stead has come the situation of purchaser on one side the counter, and sales-person on the other, both equally ignorant of textile values, often of textile identity. But sales-people on their part are trying to increase their knowledge: the instruction in salesmanship which has been organized in many places gives textiles its proper place in the curriculum. Schools of household arts and college departments of home economics have for several years recognized the necessity of textile study to educate the consumer. But there has been a dearth of scientific material available. The schools of textile technology all give instruction in textile chemistry and other applied science necessary to equip the successful manufacturer, or the producer, of textile goods. If we may believe the cynics, such schools indeed train the producer in shrewder methods and darker matters than the consumer may ever hope to unravel or bring to light. Fairly judged, however, modern textile manufacture where it has been criticized has simply devised ways of producing expensive effects with cheap materials, as mercerizing cotton to make it look like silk, and weighting actual silk with tin salts to give what seems heavy silk at costs far below pure silk. Such attempts go wrong when either the customer buys ignorantly and laments afterward, or when the manufacturer actually overshoots the mark in his endeavor to produce cheap but attractive goods and produces defective ones with a low wearing efficiency. We none of us desire to go back to unbleached muslin and butternut gray, but we have a right to demand a dollar's worth of wear as well a dollar's worth of effect from our clothes.
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